It was something of a departure for Jay Song, the designer behind South Korean label Songzio, this season. Habitually he takes a single painting as his starting point, building his increasingly coed wardrobe, which he describes as “oriental futurism,” around it.
Here, sculpture in its broader sense was his canvas, with a layering of various abstract references. “This season I went two ways, the way we go from a sculpture to a garment, and from a garment to a sculpture. Depending on the garment, we tried to have either a garment cut, reconstructed [or] reimagined to become a wearable sculpture, but also the other way around, where we start with various different individual polyptych pieces and patchwork them together into a garment,” he explained backstage before the show.
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This could be seen in the colors of the opening looks, in stone-like or fleshy shades, before the palette veered toward golden sandy shades, silver, vivid red and burnt orange. Many of the silhouettes were cocoon-like, enveloping the body with their rounded forms. Others featured multiple layers and strips of material that moved with the body, structured yet fluid, accentuating textural details and plays on pleating, with openings, at the shoulder or knee for instance, showing a hint of the skin beneath. Jackets were oversize and collarless, resembling tailored cardigans.
Metallic details were prevalent, as a glint on a tweed triple cape jacket in the palest pink or in the sheen of the almost transparent, glossy technical fabrics Song worked with as tabs of material, openwork patchworks or as his interpretation of basics. Futuristic pleated bloomers in varying lengths were the pant-shape of the season, paired with a contemporary take on gladiator sandals in a range of colors to match each look.
Launch Gallery: Songzio Spring 2026 Ready-to-Wear Collection
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